rcgods

Timing covers can be swapped from the standard cast items to bling CNC aluminium ones, maybe better heat dispersion. Some are also vented. The main part the riders have different between engines is either is on the head covering the cam end. These "badges" are available from GM in 3 or 4 colours and there are also bling aftermarket ones with fins etc. Bjerre engines have their own CNC milled ones with Bjerre Motorsport engraved on them (or they did when we had some of their Jawas). This is easiest to spot from the stands. Some riders also have names for engines usually engraved on the timing cases or they refer to them by the tuner serial numbers.

Coventry (I know not a championship club or club at all anymore ) always had multiple ambulances and paramedics. Even better was having a Dr Kenyon at every meeting not just a head paramedic. I am sure that Dr saved some lives having seen some huge crashes at Coventry in the past. Even then I remember sitting for medical delays

They get points money and travel expenses. Neither of which make the racing profitable in any way especially with the current prices of diesel. Some riders I have been involved with this has been £10 a point and 10p a mile.

You don't need that many special tools for day to day work on the bikes. A decent toolkit with sockets, spanners and allen keys will do most of the work. The clutch tool is quite cheap to buy but people have made them from wide screwdrivers or chisels. One tool you may need is a clutch basket holding tool, this can be made from an old alloy plate, bolts and some bar or box section metal to form a handle. You only need this when removing the clutch basket to change the bearing in it or the countershaft bearings. Depending on the carb on the bike you may need a setting gauge and dial to get the settings correct, ideally for a first bike a simpler carb like a Finn Jensen would be ideal as these only require simple maintenance unlike Blixt which require more stripping and the special setting gauge. As for parts breaking it depends how often and how hard you come off! Primary chain guards are prone to damage as the bike normally comes down on that side and slides along it. A lot of stuff bends before it breaks like rear pushbars which can be persuaded back straight. If the frame or forks get damaged these can be stripped off the bike and usually straightened. I have seen some properly banana shaped bikes that have been straightened. This can be done at places like JHR in Swadlincote near Derby. You can go a whole season without breaking anything but you can go event to event and break something similar to trials really!

If the above statement is true his equipment has potentially not been checked properly either by himself or the machine examiners (assuming a fallen bike and a stood rider will pull the cutout which it should). However this is still not justification for the actions.

A rather dodgy UK ref. She almost demolishes the fence when she is doing the pre meeting inspection and is well known for flaky decisions....